Friday, July 10, 2009

Replacing suspension bushings on a Volvo 142

Nick over at Original Square is doing pretty much the same suspension job I did, and he has more info than I included in my posts about the upgrade. For the sake of getting helpful hints out to everyone, here is part of our current discussion of bushing placement:



"Here is the run-down of I know for sure:

A. ...Currently unsure. You could be right about them being sway bar bushings, but the shape doesn't look quite right. Also, if you are going to use IPD sways, you won't need these.
B. Lower front wishbones. [SAVE THE OUTER STEEL CASINGS ON THE OLD ONES, SINCE THESE DON'T COME WITH NEW CASINGS LIKE THE UPPER BUSHINGS (H)]
C. ...Currently unsure.
D. Panhard Rod (right). [Looking from rear of car].
E. Front of lower rear trailing arms.
F. Rear upper torque/trailing arms
G. ...Currently unsure.
H. Upper front wishbones.
I. Panhard Rod (left). [Looking from rear of car].
J. Axle-to-lower rear trailing arm pivot.

I have counted them up several times, and I am confused about A, C and G---they seem to be extras, or not for this car, but I'll have to make a closer inspection to be sure. I will have my car up in the air today to check the trans oil level, and I will snap some shots of all the bushings for comparison.

All the work should be DIY-able if you have access to a large bench vise or a hydraulic press and an assortment of different sized pipe/sockets to use for pressing. The upper wishbones are probably the hardest because of the pivot bolt design, but I think you could get it all without a trip to the machine shop."

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